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How Lagos Moves

Ugonna-Ora Owoh in a red jacket and red wide-leg trousers on a Lagos kerb, a passer-by blurred in the foreground

There are two words I’ve long used to describe Lagos: beautiful chaos. They may read like an oxymoron, but they are the closest thing the city has to a definition. To understand Lagos, you must first allow that contradiction to settle in your mind. Only then does the city begin to reveal itself, not as […]

Why Artists Keep Returning to Grand-Popo

Performance n:u, Howlihoué: pour ce(ux) qui reste(nt) at the Lọpọ Lọpọ 2026 festival in Grand-Popo, Benin

When Joshua Gbengene visited Grand-Popo for the third time in December 2025, he was simply keeping a distance from work. After months of working nonstop on a series of creative projects, including a pop-up and an installation, the multidisciplinary artist travelled to the coastal town in search of somewhere quiet enough to slow down, clear […]

How Nigeria Was Everywhere and Nowhere at the World Cup

Nigerian fans in green Super Eagles jerseys celebrating during the 2026 World Cup

Where the 2026 World Cup rank in recent history is discourse for another time, there’s no doubt that it has uniquely taken its place as a cultural tentpole. A reason for this? The host nations, particularly the United States, which, months before the tournament kicked off, was speculatively doomed because of anti-immigration sentiments, ICE crackdowns, […]

Francis Kéré Builds the Goethe-Institut Dakar from the Ground Up

Exterior of the Goethe-Institut Dakar, showing perforated laterite brick walls beneath a steel canopy

In Dakar, a new cultural landmark is rising from the soil. Designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Diébédo Francis Kéré, the new Goethe-Institut Senegal turns earth, memory, and craftsmanship toward a new era of African architectural possibility. In Dakar’s Fann neighbourhood, a baobab tree stands at the centre of a building that appears to have grown […]