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Before Arthur Ashe Was a Stadium, He Was a Problem for Apartheid

The author, TaNeesha Johnson, in front of the colourful 2026 US Open mural by Eugenia Mello at Flushing Meadows.

Every late August in New York, Arthur Ashe becomes a place. More than 23,000 people fill the stadium carrying his name. Players walk through its tunnels, and commentators use the name as geography: Night session at Ashe. Meet me outside Ashe. Fifty-three years ago, another country was trying to keep Arthur Ashe out. South Africa […]

How Lagos Moves

Ugonna-Ora Owoh in a red jacket and red wide-leg trousers on a Lagos kerb, a passer-by blurred in the foreground

There are two words I’ve long used to describe Lagos: beautiful chaos. They may read like an oxymoron, but they are the closest thing the city has to a definition. To understand Lagos, you must first allow that contradiction to settle in your mind. Only then does the city begin to reveal itself, not as […]

The New Stewards of El Fenn

The tree-filled central courtyard of El Fenn, Marrakech, with tiled floors and low seating.

It requires remarkable restraint to be uncharmed by El Fenn. Hidden behind rosy, sun-drenched walls inside the centuries-old medina, the hotel has long existed as one of Marrakech’s defining creative addresses, where the cedar doors and tadelakt walls feel less like a hotel than a private home opened to the world. From the rooftop, the […]

How Nigeria Was Everywhere and Nowhere at the World Cup

Nigerian fans in green Super Eagles jerseys celebrating during the 2026 World Cup

Where the 2026 World Cup rank in recent history is discourse for another time, there’s no doubt that it has uniquely taken its place as a cultural tentpole. A reason for this? The host nations, particularly the United States, which, months before the tournament kicked off, was speculatively doomed because of anti-immigration sentiments, ICE crackdowns, […]