Subterranea
For Subterranea, Ayabukwa Magocoba went underground. The project, which she conceived, directed, styled and modelled, was shot in the limestone chambers of the Sterkfontein Caves outside Johannesburg, the UNESCO-listed site where the human record is held as both archive and origin. It is fitting ground. Magocoba is less interested in placing a body in a […]
The Money Is the Wrong Shape
The year Beyoncé wore her clothes, Sarah Diouf was still, in effect, her own bank. Building the label meant buying fabric before the money came back and paying tailors before the invoices settled, then finding cash for the samples, the shoots, the customs paperwork and the long quiet months between one burst of global attention […]
Bairro 6 de Maio
On a cold morning on the outskirts of Amadora, northwest of Lisbon, the ground gives way to rubble. Women roast corn on improvised grills, and residents sit in their doorways with morna playing low, the slow Cape Verdean music the islands call the sound of the soul. A handful of houses still stand among the […]
At MoMA, a New Exhibition Celebrates West Africa’s Modernist Architectural Legacy
In 1960, 17 African countries gained independence in what became known as the “Year of Africa.” For many of these newly sovereign nations, political freedom was only the beginning. They were confronted with what an independent African nation actually looked like, a question that stretched beyond governance and infrastructure into the continent’s creative life: art, […]
The Index Is the Institution
Ask a machine where to find African design and it will answer without hesitation. It returns names, a few studios, an archive or two, a marketplace. The answer arrives as though it were a window onto everything that exists. It is closer to a door that someone else hung, opening onto the rooms they chose […]
Aṣọ-Òkè: The Cloth We Inherit
I am standing before a portrait in Nigerian Modernism, the survey at Tate Modern. It is Akinola Lasekan’s 1957 oil of Justus D. Akeredolu. Lasekan and Akeredolu were both first-generation Nigerian modernists who once shared a studio in Lagos, and Akeredolu is remembered as the pioneer of Yoruba thorn carving, so the painter here is […]
Diarra Bousso Builds Fashion From Mathematics, Technology, and Craft
Diarra Bousso’s first breakthrough arrived disguised as a mistake. It came not in an atelier or a studio but late one night in a classroom at Stanford University. Stacks of algebra assignments covered the desk in front of her. She was grading papers, tracing her students’ attempts to graph linear equations, absolute values, and quadratic […]
Meriem Berrada Took Morocco to Venice for the First Time
For about a decade and a half, Meriem Berrada has been at the forefront of building sustainable art and cultural ecosystems across Africa and the Arab world and their diasporas, with a focus on the intersections between art and craft in contemporary storytelling, as well as an interest in photography. She has founded, launched, and […]
A Goalkeeper Went Viral. It Took a Congressman to Get His Mother to the Game
Last Monday, in the first World Cup match in Cape Verde’s history, a forty-year-old goalkeeper named Josimar Dias, known to everyone as Vozinha, faced a Spain side that produced twenty-seven attempts and still left Atlanta without a goal. Seven of those efforts forced saves, and the reigning European champions, widely expected to brush aside an […]
Love Has Become Bad Manners
Hasna and Ryan kept giving themselves away, a shoulder leaning in, a collar fixed with a care no collar has ever needed, their bodies doing what bodies do before pride gets involved. Nobody in the room minded that the two of them wanted each other; the discomfort was that the wanting kept showing on their […]