The Trends That Defined Lagos Fashion Week SS27
Lagos Fashion Week returned for its 16th edition from 28 October to 1 November under the theme “Crafted”, continuing a conversation about heritage and innovation while exploring the knowledge, skill and creative ideas shaping African fashion. The five-day schedule was packed with more than 60 designers, but only a few met the threshold for innovation […]
Africa’s Creative Work Is Training AI. Who Makes the Terms Count?
Over six instalments, The Sovereign Stack followed African creative work into the AI systems now being built on top of it: how it is seen, paid for, found, bought, recorded and governed. The season closes on the question beneath every one of them: who can make those systems come and ask, and who will still be there to answer?
The Commercial Life of African Culture
Ownership, rights and distribution shape who profits from the African creative economy, from wax print and photography to Afrobeats.
The Protocol Is the Border
The download button is easy to find. The condition above it belongs to every person whose voice is inside the file, and it is the easiest thing on the page to miss. DhoNam is a Dholuo speech dataset stewarded by the Maseno Centre for Applied Artificial Intelligence in Kenya and hosted on Mozilla Data Collective. […]
Who Made the Welcome
The lion began with a schoolgirl’s drawing. Ndeye Mariama Diop drew the character selected through a national school competition. A second student, Ndeye Khady Kristall Coumbassa, supplied its name. Together their contributions became Ayo, the mascot of the Dakar 2026 Youth Olympic Games. Senegal’s education authorities credit them both. The ministry reports more than 500 […]
How Lusaka Moves
There is a particular way Lusaka reveals itself. You can spend an entire afternoon convinced there is nowhere to go, only to find yourself scattered around town because the errands dragged you to new places. For years, Lusaka has been described as a city of work and little play. In administration, politics, and commerce, it […]
Building Around Broken Systems
When Godwin Okoruwa, founder and creative director of GDWN, started his gender-fluid label amidst the pandemic in 2020, he had it firmly at the back of his mind that he had to build purely from his instinct. There was no elaborate market analysis or established blueprint for how the brand would grow. His already decade-long […]
City Codes: Dakar Is Not a Trend
Dakar is forever being discovered as an emerging creative capital, yet its fashion week dates to 2002 and its first world festival of Black arts to 1966. Treating the city as a trend rather than a working system carries a real cost.
The Record Is the Asset
“Get the right person in the room and they can tell you exactly where a record lives.” Adaobi Orajiaku is describing Nigeria’s National Gallery of Art. Its documentation department maintains printed and handwritten catalogues recording how each work entered the national collection. Orajiaku’s company, Atsur, has spent the past two years working with the Gallery […]
North African Design and Its Geographies
Above: ALTIN, Our AlUla Trilogy, Wadi. Photograph © Lorenzo Arrigoni The Institut du monde arabe has named twenty-six finalists for the fourth edition of its Design Award, across four juried categories, showing at the IMA from 10 to 20 September with the ceremony held the evening before. A Public Prize, new this year, runs across […]