Guinea: A Textile Civilization in Four Systems

Guinea: A Textile Civilization in Four Systems By Mariama Camara & Oury Sene King of Kindia, c.1910, with two wives in Basse-Guinée textiles (tie-dye, weaving, embroidery). Courtesy of Duncan Clarke, antique postcard and African textile dealer. Guinea, officially the Republic of Guinea, is rarely understood through its material systems. It is more often described through […]
Material Literacy: The Knowledge in Cloth

Mariama Camara on authorship, ownership, and the distance between admiration and accountability.
Who Makes Luxury?

When news circulated that Nigeria had quietly supplied leather to some of the world’s most prestigious fashion
At OWO 25, Accra Emerges as the New Capital of Conscious Style

Accra’s Kantamanto Market transformed into a stage of color, ingenuity, and defiance last month. The annual
The Sustainability Checklist: African Fashion in the Age of Green Demands

While African fashion practices have long been inherently sustainable, designers are now navigating a global system where sustainability means compliance
Trans-continental Collaborations Opened New Markets for African Fashion — Why Did They Pause?

The most transformative moments in African fashion over the past decade have been defined by strategic collaborations that elevated the industry to unprecedented heights. Yet this remarkable ascent was only possible because African designers first established an unshakeable foundation: placing culture at the very heart of their creative vision. What distinguishes African fashion from its […]
The History of African Designers at New York Fashion Week

When African designers began appearing on the New York Fashion Week stage, they brought with them more than collections—they introduced perspectives that expanded the conversation of global fashion. From Nigeria’s vibrant textiles to South Africa’s bold silhouettes, these creators have steadily woven cultural heritage and contemporary vision into one of the industry’s most visible platforms. […]
Everyday Couture: Why Africa’s True Fashion Houses Sit on the Streets

Growing up in Africa, you feel the streets’ pulse long before you ever hear of Paris runways. On crowded roads where roasted plantain and petrol fumes mingle, a tailor’s shop hums with life. It’s a tiny space, bursting with wax prints, bogolan, kente, and lace — colors popping like a festival. A sewing machine buzzes […]
WORN OUT — Part III: Return to Sender

How African Designers Are Reclaiming Waste and Rewriting Fashion’s Future The bales arrive as they always have — compressed, labeled, shipped across oceans like cargo without conscience. They still overwhelm ports and markets, a visible symptom of a system that hasn’t stopped. But something has shifted in how they’re received. Across Accra, Cairo, Dakar, workshops […]
WORN OUT: A Series on Africa and Secondhand Clothing

A three-part Guzangs series on the secondhand clothing trade and the African economies absorbing it. An estimated 15 million used garments enter Ghana every week, most of them shipped from the UK, the US, and China, and a global secondhand trade now worth more than five billion dollars a year treats the continent as its […]