Nestled within one of Lagos’ esteemed streets lies Vici Lagos, a restaurant renowned for its near five-star rating and often dubbed the Lagosian escape to Milan due to its architectural and aesthetic appeal. Thus, it was fitting that on a Thursday afternoon, this venue hosted the unveiling of Tokyo James’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection. The collection, aptly titled “Midnight,” seamlessly fused Nigerian brilliance with a touch of Milanese fantasy. This synergy was further accentuated as the show, part of the Milan Fashion Week FW 2025/2026 season, was broadcast live to Milan.
Beyond its visual allure, the collection signifies a reimagining of familiar concepts, ushering in a sense of novelty. In the words of Iniye, it serves as an exploration of fundamental human essence: “I wanted to examine the perpetual dance with the rules and framework that governs the human essence, fusing avant-garde tailoring and timeless elegance to redefine identity,” he remarked.
Moreover, the collection reflects on the current political climate, positioning fashion as a medium of resistance and advocacy, a sentiment evident in the runway pieces. “Midnight” also commemorates a significant milestone for the brand, celebrating Iniye’s decade-long journey and setting the stage for future endeavors. Expressing his gratitude, he shared, “I’m grateful for family, for community, for people that have believed in me and continue to believe in me, and for people that put your name in rooms when you’re not there.“
The event radiated energy, showcasing a plethora of new details and sartorial techniques. Guzangs took note of the standout designs:
A Perfectly Crafted Menswear Delight
The menswear pieces exuded near perfection. For “Midnight,” Tokyo James presented a series of impeccably tailored suits and two-piece ensembles in muted tones. The collection featured black leather two-pieces, matte-patterned pants, velvet brown coats, matte-patterned blazers, and leather trench coats. Notably, the brand’s commitment to gender fluidity shone through, exemplified by a model gracing the runway in a tightly knitted dress adorned with brown wavy details.
Eccentric Beadwork Details
Beadwork made a striking return in the Tokyo James FW25 collection. It appeared Iniye sought to experiment with subtle yet impactful elements in “Midnight.” Attendees observed numerous pieces embellished with beadwork in unconventional spots—beaded chest pockets, collars, and belts. These intricate details added a subliminal allure as models traversed the runway.
A Political Statement with Black
Given the collection’s title, “Midnight,” an emphasis on black was anticipated. However, Iniye aimed to infuse the color with political significance. He articulated, “Black is an armor. Black is resistance. Black is beautiful. Black is something that is timeless and goes forever. Black is everything.” The black ensembles captivated with their intricate details—embroidered gowns, laced pieces, ball gowns, and sequined dresses.
In essence, Tokyo James’ “Midnight” collection not only celebrated a decade of design excellence but also challenged conventional narratives, blending cultural heritage with contemporary fashion in a politically charged context.
