At Milan Fashion Week, Paul Roger Tanonkou unveiled Identité Plurielle, a collection that transcends clothing and speaks to the complex layers of identity. Through his brand, Zenam, the Cameroonian designer tells a deeply personal yet universally resonant story—one that fuses the rich heritage of his Bamiléké origins with the influences of French colonialism, the elegance of Paris, and the craftsmanship of Italy.
Tanonkou describes Identité Plurielle as a reflection of his multicultural journey, and every piece in the collection embodies this narrative. The garments are not just expressions of style but symbols of movement—both physical and symbolic—bridging continents and histories through textile and technique.
One of the defining features of Identité Plurielle is its seamless blend of African iconography with Italian craftsmanship. Traditional prints, inspired by African artistry, are reimagined in contemporary silhouettes, creating a harmonious interplay between heritage and innovation. The collection’s logo, a passport mask, serves as a powerful metaphor, representing Tanonkou’s journey through cultures, a visual marker of identity and universal belonging.
The runway opened with a striking mustard jacquard dress, its geometric pattern a nod to African textile traditions, yet its structure exuded European refinement. The balance between bold prints and minimalist tailoring became a key motif, reinforcing the collection’s message of cultural fusion.
Textiles play a crucial role in Identité Plurielle, with Kuba fabric—handwoven by women in the Kasaï region of Congo—appearing prominently throughout the collection. This textured, earth-toned fabric was integrated with luxurious Italian leather, forming a striking contrast that mirrors the interplay of tradition and modernity. The soft, raw nature of Kuba against the polished sheen of leather adds a tactile depth to the garments, emphasizing the beauty of duality.
A standout look featured a richly textured oversized coat paired with a silk-printed scarf adorned with African mask motifs. The deep brown fabric exuded warmth and structure, while the scarf introduced fluidity, reinforcing the idea that identity is not rigid but ever-evolving. Another model walked in an ivory quilted coat, its sculptural silhouette offset by an oversized gold beaded necklace—a direct nod to West African adornment practices.
Patchwork emerges as a defining technique in Identité Plurielle, symbolizing the weaving together of identities and experiences. Leather panels of varying hues are carefully stitched together, creating unique patterns that reflect the designer’s multifaceted influences. The collection’s accessories, including fringed bags, further emphasize the theme of movement—an intentional design choice that gives garments a sense of fluidity and life.
In one striking look, a model wore an electric turquoise and brown knit sweater, cinched at the waist with a fringed artisanal belt, an embodiment of how traditional craftsmanship can merge seamlessly with modern silhouettes. Another featured a bold jacquard-printed suit, worn over a silk blouse showcasing intricate African mask motifs, perfectly encapsulating the essence of Identité Plurielle: sophisticated yet deeply rooted in cultural storytelling.
At its core, Identité Plurielle is more than a collection—it is a manifesto on identity, inclusivity, and the unifying power of fashion. Tanonkou’s use of materials, from Kuba fabric to high-quality Italian tailoring, serves as a metaphor for cultural exchange, proving that heritage and contemporary design can exist not as opposites but as complementary forces.
As the final model walked in a long, belted knit coat in earthy tones, adorned with layered beaded necklaces, the audience was left with a lasting impression: fashion, when wielded with intention, has the power to bridge histories, reclaim narratives, and redefine the meaning of luxury.
With Identité Plurielle, Paul Roger Tanonkou does not just design clothes—he weaves together the past, present, and future into garments that tell a story of belonging, resilience, and evolution. And in Milan, that story was impossible to ignore.
