Threads of Influence IV: The Elegance of Defiance

Threads of Influence IV: The Elegance of Defiance Threads IV Thumbnail e1757701457935

The art of tailoring has long been a site of Black resistance, elegance, and reinvention. From the studied poise of precolonial kings to the audacious flamboyance of the Sapeurs, tailoring has shaped how the world sees Black style — and how Black people see themselves. The 2025 Met Gala theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, affirms […]

Threads of Influence II: Colonial Dandyism and the Politics of Dress

Threads of Influence II: Colonial Dandyism and the Politics of Dress Deo Gratias Thumbnail e1757701309181

From the late 19th to mid-20th centuries, as European colonial powers carved up Africa, a sartorial uprising simmered beneath the surface. In the shadow of Union Jacks, tricolores, and Belgian crowns, African men—across Lagos’s humid docks, Accra’s dusty streets, Leopoldville’s riverfront markets—took the European suit, that rigid emblem of imperial control, and stitched it into […]

Threads of Influence: Pre-Colonial African Menswear and the Power of Style

Threads of Influence: Pre-Colonial African Menswear and the Power of Style Kuba Bantu King Attire DRC e1757701247312

Before silk lapels, velvet loafers, or custom-tailored suits graced the red carpet, African men were already masters of refined, intentional dress. In pre-colonial times, menswear across the continent was more than fabric — it was storytelling. Rich with symbolism, steeped in meaning, and crafted with care, clothing served as a powerful expression of identity, community, […]

Threads of Influence: A Series on Black Tailoring

Threads of Influence: A Series on Black Tailoring Kuba Bantu King Attire DRC e1757701247312

A seven-part Guzangs series on Black tailoring, written into and around the 2025 Met Gala’s “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” The Costume Institute’s 2025 theme made Black dandyism the subject of the year’s most-watched fashion event. Threads of Influence spent four weeks reporting around it, beginning with pre-colonial African menswear and ending on the Met steps. […]